What's wrong with this picture?

[tashko]

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/majctop/Car/DSC05795.jpg


Well, I guess nothing really, it's more "what's wrong with the subject in the picture?"

Timing belt should not be visible from outside the opaque timing belt cover!! :-( :hammer:

Also, broken A/C belt tensioner:

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/majctop/Car/DSC05794.jpg

[STeveD]

Yipes! How many KM and when was the last Timing belt service!

Hopefully it's not the dreaded crank walk!!!

http://www.datsunracing.com/other/humor/crankwalk2.jpg

[tashko]

Don't tell me scooby's have crankwalk!?!

I think it's just an idler/tensioner gone for a bit of a walk. it was making a hell of racket but the engine still ran strong...yes, I was still driving with the noise...places to go people to see. I only did about 40kms though! :-o

[JoeT]

The only ones with the crank walk was the cars with the center thrust bearing. All the rest were rock solid. The EJ22 in your wagon was and is the most solid engine in the lineup.

[Navigator]

If the AC tensioner was pushing against the cover for some reason you would have got that problem. Do you know that the timing belt moved?

[tashko]

It's seems to still tensioned well, so I'm hoping the noise was just the pulley. There was no a/c belt on so the tensioner wasn't being used. I didn't notice if it was broken previously as it might not be related.

I'll post a pic once I get the crank pulley and belt cover off and we'll see what it looks like in there!

[Cavemanrjc]

Is it similar to the mits eng in the Hyundi Tibs
center thrust barring (half moon looking thingy)
and a pull type clutch.
press the clutch and get belt squell
crank moving 1/2 inch in and out
went over 1000 km with the belt making noise on shifts
thrust washers / barrings sitting in pan
installed new washers and all good. Custamer has put on 30000 k since repair

[dubya_rx]

I don't see the timing belt in the first pic.

The mark in the timing belt cover looks like it goes under the crank pulley, so I doubt it was caused by the AC tensioner pulley.

Bumping the starter is an easy way to remove the crank bolt. Have the breaker bar rest on the frame near the battery and just touch the starter.

[Nuwan]

If the timing cover is bolted down correctly and the tensioner pulley bearing is ok then the nut on the tensioner pulley probably wasn't tight. Either that or the tensioner bracket itself wasn't on tight.

I have some perfectly good a/c tensioners you can have if need be.

[dubya_rx]

^^ Which means you don't have to take the cover off unless you're changing the timing belt.

[tashko]

Thanks for the tips guys! I got the pulley off using a 1/2" drive 7/8" socket and the starter method. Nice and easy!

Here's some pics:

Timing belt cover
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/majctop/Car/DSC05798.jpg

Tensioner pulley (had too much to drink I guess)
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/majctop/Car/DSC05799.jpg

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/majctop/Car/DSC05800.jpg

Here's the problem, there's a thingamabob stuck in the whatchamcallit!
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u313/majctop/Car/DSC05801.jpg

Yup, the tensioner pulley bolt was snapped, nothing holding that baby on except for the timing belt cover and bolt jamming against the mounting block. You can see threads formed at the top of the bolt hole by the load on the bolt.

Belt had skipped a number of teeth. I'm fairly certain this SOHC EJ22 is non-interference so all should be well when I button it up again.

In the meantime...I f'n love my Talon. It's so much fun to drive! :bow:
I might save the leggy for the winter and drive the Talon for the next few months.

[dubya_rx]

According to Wikipedia, up to 1996 they were non-interference.

[Navigator]

Never seen anything like this, wow.

[tashko]

Turns out that bracket is only $57 from the dealer so I'm buying a new one rather than trying to take that bolt out and heli-coiling it.

[Cavemanrjc]

A lot of engs have torque to yeald tensiner and idler pully bolts

Thay dont work so good the second time

Ive seen that twice, both on neons, and we all know what high qualaty cars thay are.

[Nuwan]

Eeeck, wasn't expecting that! Probably likely the last person to install the tensioner pulley over tightened and started the thread stripping.

Rob, I hope you are not inferring that the Subaru engine is akin to that of a Neon? If so, who's got access to the "ban" button for his account? LOL

[Cavemanrjc]

no no it was just an example :-)

Subarus are far better then a dodge any day

Rated by: I work In an 11 bay shop and fix far more Cryslers...,Fords.../Jag ,Hondas/Acuras,Toyota/Lexus,Lots of Nissans but not to many infinity and some GMs But very very few Subarus. And I see a lot around



It's just that you tend to find more torque to yield stuff in the imports then domestic. Now most domestics are going that way to.
ONE TIME USE should be marked on the hardware and the new parts should come with new hardware but usually don't. Makes it really Important to use Factory torque spec sheets as often as possible as they will tell you when not to reuse.

Example: Rear spindle nut on a ford focus One Time Use
but you need to remove it to inspect the rear brakes.
Dumb ehe?

[tashko]

I finally got around to fixing the car. I replaced the four pulleys and the belt. Started up fine and purrs like a kitten, better than before!

That was the easiest timing belt job in the world. :tu:

Anybody have a torque spec for the crank pulley? I didn't find it anywhere and decided 110 ftlbs was good. I guess I could do some searching...or maybe buy the service manual!

[Cavemanrjc]

yearofcarandengin

[AndrewR]

1996 2.2 Legacy

[Cavemanrjc]

2.5 96=90-97
97-99=123-138
plus locktight