PDA

View Full Version : 1996 Turbo Civic - Cheap



RRRex
10-27-2009, 10:19 PM
This is the Splitfire built Time Trial monster that has been terrorizing time trial events throughout Ontario this session. It’s a 1996 Honda Civic EK hatchback. It’s the fastest competing front wheel drive solo sprint car in Ontario right now. You will get Z06/Porsche 911/BMW M3 type performance for a fraction of the cost and double the thrills. This is a grass roots motorsport superstar.

Asking $8,000.
Turbo system alone ran us over $15,000.

This car has done 1:35.9 at Mosport on full race slicks, on an open track, will hit the rev limiter in 5th gear on the back straight at 230kph and hold sustained cornering G-force loads in the 2.5 to 2.7G range. This car is just unreal and violent.

It has for the entire 2009 Solo Sprint series set the fastest front wheel drive times in every event its competed in. It was the winner of open MOD class in Solo Sprint 2009. It also set the fastest front wheel drive time at the Oct CSCS time trial with a disabled vtec solenoid on a damp track.

It’s a 1996 Honda Civic CX hatch.
Untuned, first run it made 330hp 270ft of torque under min boost wastegate would allow
Tuned (present state) it makes 350hp and 290ft of torque
Turbo is capable of 550hp easily with increased boost but we don’t really see the point since at 350hp with a full Goodyear 430 race slick it already spins tires in 4th gear on turn exit - I believe more power will only make the car harder to drive therefore slower.
Over $15,000 spent on a Garret GT30 turbo system in 64 trim? running 10psi boost
Splitfire made custom-made solid steel equal length exhaust manifold
Headshield on block
Front mounted intercooler
Splitfire built turbo piping
Splitfire built full aircraft grade 2.5” SS exhaust


The newly assembled Splitfire installed 2001 2L bottomend mated to a refreshed 1998 b16 head – burns no oil – and has only 3 events on it – new head gasket – very fresh
Bottomend only runs $800 to replace – head around 1000 – both are fresh - the last motor we had lasted close to 3 seasons with no major issues
ITR throttle body
B16 tranny with a $500 Special Projects GearX 4.7 Final drive and $1200 Quaife LSD – rebuilt at the beginning of the season with about 7 events on it – third to second shift syncro is starting to go but a simple double clutch shift resolves the issue instantly
S2 full race suspension 14K front/12K rear
S2 rear LCAs
S2 adjustable front UCAs
Special Projects solid spherical bearings in the rear LCAs
Ingrils adjustable rear camber arms
New EK LCA with new bushings
Dual core – double core full aluminum race rad
2L oil cooler with stainless steel piping and ARP fittings
APR sandwich plate – over $700 in parts
Morroso full road race oil pan with a 6 gate road race oil traps and magnetic oil plug – holds extra L – cost $650
Entire setup runs 7L total oil hold with oil cooler, oil pan and plumbing
Thermostat replaced with restrictor plate – takes about half a lap to get the engine up to race temp
Presently runs 170 degree water temps under full boost – even after continuous lapping – previous overheating issues have been resolved with the new motor and bigger turbo
Lightened stock hood with cooling holes and spacers for improved cooling
Flat black front bumper
Roof mounted rear airfoil spoiler
Interior stripped
Half cage –bolt-in.
Momo race seats
Solid bearing shifter – Comptech I believe – it’s shorter than stock but not short enough damage the tranny with quick shifts and will never wear out like a ball-bearing short shifter does
Needs a new driver’s side axle since present one is clicking
Nardi suede racing wheel – like Velcro to race gloves
Ball-bearing quick release – no play
Autometer monster Tach
Autometer oil pressure gauge
Autometer water temp gauge
Autometer oil temperature gauge – (needs new sensor)
ARP extended wheel studs
$200 lightened steel lug nuts with built in washers for perfect wheel torquing
Machine shop made custom wheel spacers 1.25” front and .75” rear made from machined aluminum to fit 10” wide front race tires and 9” wide rear race tires – cost over $400
GSR front brakes with brembo rotors - + spares
Calipers replaced in June with new Honda calipers
Fresh Hawk Blue front pads and Project U F1 rear pads
Earls SS brake lines – replaced in July
Motul brake fluid
Sythetic 20W50 royal purple and Mobil1 15W50 used all season – replaced every weekend
Only Honda filters used – replaced every oil change
Honda MTF replaced every 4th weekend – 2 events on present tranny fluid
Stage 4 6-puck clutch - recently replaced – 4 events tops
10lb flywheel
Runs 1 degree front camber and .5 degrees rear for race slicks – more camber is recommend for ubbers and even more for r comps
Car has been exclusively tuned and race prepped for each event by Paul Bhawan at Splitfire Performance in Brampton - feel free to call him directly for anything you need to know about the car
Plus many other bits not listed

Over $20,000 has been invested into this car this season alone.
Turbo system alone set us back $15,000 and is presently fully sorted

This setup relies on a sorted turbo system for power and low-cost stock engine bits for reliability – very capable – proven winner – pummels cars with 3 to 4 times higher race budgets with ease – a grassroots racers dream

Turn key FTD capable FWD race car - an incredible value at $8,000 all in

Some pictures below:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c102/RRRex91/Picture24.png
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c102/RRRex91/Picture19.png
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c102/RRRex91/47-2009_05_23_2669a.jpg

Here’s the incar video with a tired B16 motor and a smaller T3 turbo during a Kensei lapping day – presently runs a bigger turbo and a 2L bottom end:

You Tube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLCJwDuhxiQ)

Full season report found here – keep in mind thread starts as a build thread but turns into a full report about this car since the new car was never finished and never run:

Club Si (http://forums.clubsi.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3706415#Post3706415)

Honda Tech (http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=38418852#post38418852)

CASC POST (http://casc.on.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=16732&page=3)

Instruction available if buyer puts down a deposit and finds a lapping day for testing purposes.
Miska dual axle car hauler also available.

CONTACT:
PM here or contact
civic@afirma.ca

JoeT
10-27-2009, 10:34 PM
What engine management is being used?
What injector size for this engine?
What boost is it running?
What is the current targetted AFR at max boost?
Who tuned it?
Who built the engine?

Thanks

RRRex
10-28-2009, 01:21 AM
Sorry Joe, half my cut and past didn't transfer over, but it's fixed now.

The engine is a low mileage stock B20 with a B16 head assembled by Paul at Splitfire. The last B20vtec he built us lasted almost 3 seasons and has been our best engine yet. Hard to beat stock Honda parts really. Plus it's cheap running 500 to 800 for a good bottomend from a JDM importer. The nice thing about the B20 is it's from a CRV so not beat on like an ITR or B16s are. You can't rev them to 9K but makes plenty of power in the low 8Ks.

AFR is set to 12:1 - very safe - shifts slightly between 11.7:1 to 12.2:1 depending on RPM.
Turned at Splitfire.
Engine tune is a P28 chipped ECU - tuned on a Mustang dyno with Chrome software
Boost is 10.2 lbs under full boost - it's also the lowest boost setting for our wastegate.
I want to say the injectors are 550 but not really sure. Pretty sure they're Supra size. We had upgraded really big ones in there, but the new bigger turbo leaned them out so we went to even stupider ones. Whatever they were they cost a lot and are well under the max duty cycle.
Anyway, a lot was spent on it and it's sad to see it go.

RRRex
10-31-2009, 08:15 PM
Added some more pictures.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c102/RRRex91/5010_216726575407_615290407_7289913.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c102/RRRex91/5010_216726580407_615290407_7289914.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c102/RRRex91/5010_216726585407_615290407_7289915.jpg

RRRex
11-04-2009, 01:48 PM
Price drop! $7K OBO.

That's under 25% of what the car cost to build. Part it out and you should get double your money back.

RRRex
04-05-2010, 02:07 PM
bump