GROUNDED - Starting an EJ205 Rebuild

[LaszloT]

It's not fabulous to be without a personal auto.

Looks like I've spun a bearing at 252,000 km and therefore need a rebuild. I have started working on it previously with Touge Tuning (www.tougetuning.com).

At the moment I have:

1. Rebuilt heads with cams,
2. Spare EJ205 shortblock with oil pan,
3. Gates timing belt kit, and
4. OEM Cam and front crank seals.

I want to rebuild it for tracking, but I’m not planning power upgrades past Stage 2. Intend to deliver what I have to Touge, get a rebuilt long block with timing belt kit installed, and then help Caveman to remove and replace the engine in my gf's driveway in Orillia when the longblock is ready.

I think I prefer:

5. 4032 alloy forged pistons,
6. ARP head studs, and
7. 'toilet seat' baffle oiling mod.


Internal components Needed
-New Bearings (Rod and Main)
-Forged Pistons
-ARP Head Studs
-Head Gaskets
-Seals

Should the oil pickup be replaced as well, and what else should I consider?

http://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&docid=RF9j2ukHSCGHoM&tbnid=3S8p-2RE3pxPDM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.subyclub.com%2Ftopic%2F2882-the-truth-behind-the-subaru-ej-series-engines-are-they-as-weak-as-tuners-claim%2F&ei=bcaqU9vbKMqHyAThg4DwDw&bvm=bv.69620078,d.aWw&psig=AFQjCNHuyK-_D7r6MrmwW2Z0b3_gh7Vldw&ust=1403787237927327

[dubya_rx]

I have an engine hoist and stand you can borrow.

edit: is the ej20 prone to ring lands? I haven't heard of that.

[LaszloT]

Thanks Walter, I'll take you up on your stand and hoist offer. I expect to need them for the Jul 11th weekend.

The EJ205 does not have ring land issues like the EJ257, and it's the more durable of the two OEM designs. It's the hypereutectic pistons in the EJ257 that are somewhat fragile.

[LaszloT]

Picked up Blake's '04 STi con rods for a sturdier EJ205 build.

http://www.varanusniloticus.com/1Ostatni/PartsEbay/P1060017.jpg

[LaszloT]

Pulling out the spun bearing EJ205 this weekend.

http://i.imgur.com/PPeNGyw.jpg

Spare short block will be delivered to the machine shop Thurs when all the parts (finally) arrive:

-New Bearings - King
-Forged Pistons - Mahle
-ARP Head Studs
-Head Gaskets - Cometic
-Seals
-Crank - Re-Use Original
-Rods - Use '04 STi rods
-KillerB oil pickup
-KillerB oil baffle

http://www.tougetuning.com/store/images/products/subaru/impreza/wrx/20022003/engine-internals/070-110l.jpg

http://www.tougetuning.com/store/images/products/subaru/impreza/wrx/20022003/engine-internals/EJWTl.jpg

Happy that it's being rebuilt by Canada's version of Crawford Performance, Gord Bush Performance.

http://www.gordbushperformance.com/

According to Touge Tuning, who is the performance shop I'm working with, "Gord handles all of the machining and fitting of the parts and we handle the final assembly, timing belt, seals etc."

So now I have some sort of timeline for the new motor's arrival. Woo hoo!

http://i.imgur.com/1gsMuGI.jpg

[LaszloT]

Shipped the old EJ205 to Touge Tuning for parts swap to the rebuilt motor.

http://i.imgur.com/JrMF9Rc.jpg

Collecting the fluids for reinstall. Going with a 20 minute oil change, followed by a 1,000 km oil change.

http://i.imgur.com/KFFbsGr.jpg

[nissannx]

Looks like you've got everything you need. I hope it all moves along well!

[LaszloT]

Thanks Frank.

Here's some tech trivia on forged piston alloys:

http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/pistons/tech5-trey-mcfarland-of-mahle-motorsports-reveals-piston-secrets/

[LaszloT]

Spare shortblock was opened up and confirmed that it too has spun bearing issues, requiring a crank- or crank repair- and connecting rod. We had planned to upgrade the con rods with STi items so that's not an issue, and will now replace the crankshaft with an OEM item. Build budget just went up by $550 plus tax.

"The OEM forged steel crankshaft from Subaru is quite good quality and can be used for reliatively high performance engine builds without concern. 2.0L applications use a 75mm stroke. STI Version 8 and newer crankshafts are generally surface hardened and feature cross-drilled mains to improve the oil flow to the rod bearings.

Usually ships in 1 to 2 weeks.
Manufacturer: Subaru" [RalliSpec]

http://i.imgur.com/WODn2KN.png

[wparsons]

This should be damn near bulletproof by the time you're done!

[LaszloT]

Built motor has arrived.

http://i.imgur.com/KuHiyAq.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MrFVYDD.jpg

[LaszloT]

From bobistheoilguy.com:

Built EJ205 + Specs - Understanding Break-in Procs

"You'll find many different recommendations for breaking in a built EJ engine. Here's Cobb's recommendations:

http://www.cobbtuning.com/Technical-Articles-s/70721.htm

The most popular break-in oil is probably Rotella 15W-40 so you're on the right track there. Motul, Amsoil, and RP break-in oils are good as well. Most don't switch to synthetic until after some of the initial short intervals.

And the Built Motor forum at nasioc is a good resource:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=144

Just don't be one of those guys that doesn't follow the builders' advice and ends up needing a rebuild.

-Dennis"

I was planning to run this Rotella T for the recommended break in:

1. 20 min oil change - warm for 10 min, run at 2000 rpm for 5,
2. 100 km oil change - intentionally vary the rpms constantly in this first drive, but do not to exceed 5500 rpm, and
3. 1000 km oil change - avoid constant rpm running.

http://i.imgur.com/kcEQtvb.jpg

[LaszloT]

We are back in action after 2 months without wheels. Man I miss driving this machine! :)

http://i.imgur.com/z6o0xfz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/V0g4Nra.jpg

A bad clutch release bearing caused a few dry run installs which wasted time, but aside from that it went smoothly after we got the built motor.

[wparsons]

Awesome!!

[LaszloT]

Here's us pulling the built motor one of the numerous times - sometimes in the dark - when the clutch bearing wouldn't activate the clutch.

http://i.imgur.com/o7IO76i.jpg

And I even did some work myself - like holding the light when it got dark. Ha ha.

http://i.imgur.com/Xh2LP4z.jpg

It's running strong now on a Stage 1 tune until the 1000 km oil change. After that we'll kick it up a notch, just in time for working the Sept 7 ATTS Beginner Lapping Day at the DDT. :)

[LaszloT]

EJ205 header is wrapped now. Lower underhood temps, more efficient turbo and Cat operation, and reduced heating of the oil filter. The Lava thermal wrap was a gift from the Performance Shop, and it worked great!

http://i.imgur.com/VXBtc5N.jpg

[LaszloT]

My built EJ205 is now properly broken in and running on it's 91 Octane Stage 2 tune.

Because of age, we are replacing some of the tired intercooler plumbing on the turbo discharge side, items 5. air intake duct, 7. BOV gasket and 10. y-pipe in the diagram below:


http://i.imgur.com/Hw6U941.png

Then we'll be "Ready to Rock"! Ha ha.

[wparsons]

At what point does the stock exhaust manifold become a big restriction? Is the bigger gain faster spooling?

[STeveD]

It's not that bad with the OE WRX turbo. Most data on gains are from the 2.5L block or large turbos, and then results depend on the quality of the piece. Cheaper Ebay headers are known for fitment problems and cracking.

http://perrinperformance.com/i-13323964-equal-length-header-for-2002-15-wrx-sti.html

Bang for the buck, new turbo is definitely the best hp / $.

[LaszloT]

A full day at the track running with the big boys in the Instructor's run group - the built motor WRX is working marvelously. Same Stage 2 power as before and it feels similar to the 252,000 km motor it replaces.

I had a ton of fun! :)

http://i.imgur.com/lLjhqEA.png

[LaszloT]

Not getting full boost though, as the Stage 2 specs for COBB's OTS 91 Octane map are: Boost Target: ~16.5psi peak boost pressure tapering down to ~12.0psi by the 7250RPM redline, +/- 1.0 psi

http://i.imgur.com/zaaWsIf.png

So there is still some work to do. Caveman noted this lack of full boost pressure in his shakedown runs after the intercooler work, and suggested it might be because the turbo is getting tired.

[LaszloT]

Any experience good or bad with COBB Tuning's 3-Port EBCS controller? I like that it's compatible with the OTS maps.

Yes I know, I should go for a protune. However, I'm still committed to keeping the hardware compatible with the OTS maps, and this upgrade is compatible.

Also, their OTS maps are improving and more refined now. Still safe, but more refined.

http://i.imgur.com/sKAQyyX.jpg

COBB Tuning 3-Port Ebcs - 2002-2007 Subaru Wrx - 712750 - Boost Control & Wastegates - Turbo
http://www.tougetuning.com/store/cobb-tuning-3port-ebcs-20022007-subaru-wrx-p-3150.html?cPath=80_82_86_93_363_376

[STeveD]

Pretty simple devices, I'm sure it will work well. Not a lot of sense in getting a Protune if your turbo is on it's way out.

[LaszloT]

Better datalog last night.

Seeing max boost of 15.24psi this time, when target is 16.5ps +/- 1.0psi. Scared to bounce the new motor off the rev limiter, but peak boost is at 5500rpm anyway.

Boost correction is 2-3psi in the log at WOT, so we're still doing some diagnostics. We'll check out the vacuum lines and boost controller to see if they are holding back the turbo in any way, and then we'll go from there.

Either way, it's an acceptable result because the turbo is at 250,000km.

http://i.imgur.com/T3BFMfg.jpg

[LaszloT]

Here's a few shots of the blown WRX motor teardown.

Found a spun bearing on cylinder 1 and an exterior head gasket leak that weakened a head bolt. That one snapped upon disassembly. One rod is scrap and the crank throw needs to be polished for an over-sized bearing, the rest seems salvageable as a spare.

Using Walter's helpful engine stand
http://i.imgur.com/Don1hq3.jpg

Snapped cylinder head bolt
http://i.imgur.com/7wEMLC4.jpg

Spun rod bearing on cylinder 1
http://i.imgur.com/bxIQpZj.jpg

[LaszloT]

We also found carbon deposits in the intakes, which is likely from oil vapor getting into the intake from blowby due to age.

http://i.imgur.com/4F5aAGP.jpg

[LaszloT]

Getting barely rated boost now with the exhaust manifold to turbo up-pipe gasket repair. Rated boost is 16.5psi =/- 1.0psi.

http://i.imgur.com/oNxDjIC.jpg

We confirmed that my TD05 turbo can produce 22 psi when not throttled back so it's still healthy, and not limiting boost in this situation. So it looks like it's the boost controller that isn't keeping up with the Stage 2 tune requirements, and we'll replace it in due course.

I heard that some stock boost controllers aren't up to holding Stage 2 boost levels reliably, so my issue here is consistent with that.

Here's a picture of the exhaust gasket that was leaking, and from Grimmspeed's writeup this is a problematic exhaust plumbing joint to get sealed well.

http://i.imgur.com/Sefjqm2.jpg

Their solution is a double thick replacement gasket, which sounds like a good idea.

http://i.imgur.com/DN69MDY.jpg

[STeveD]

Stock WRX BPV's can also be an issue, I was told years ago. See if you can get your hands on an STi one for a test.

[STeveD]

BTW, Dan Sprongl has a new TD04 for sale if you're still worried about turbo age.

[LaszloT]

Thank you for letting me know about it, STeveD.

I'd go with a TD05-16XT if I was getting a new one so I don't need a TD04. Mine produced 22 psi boost in testing, so the turbo is not the issue.

We are replacing the boost controller hoses this weekend, as one cracked and was spliced during the engine replacement and will check it again. I suspect that is the problem, and I don't need other parts. The rebuild busted the bank, so I'm looking to avoid additional costs.

We're also pulling the intake manifold to replace the intake duct with a Perrin item, and might as well do a TGV delete at the same time.

http://i.imgur.com/TnEKNXw.jpg

[LaszloT]

Getting rated boost with a Stage 1 COBB map at 15psi, when rated is 14.5psi +/- 1.0psi.

So this confirms that it's the boost controller that's holding us back from rated boost at Stage 2.

[STeveD]

Not sure if it's still the case, but the original Perrin turbo inlet hose differed from others by being able to install it without removing the intake manifold. So, (theoretically) easier to install, and you don't have to replace manifold gaskets.

[LaszloT]

You are correct STeveD - as usual.

I spoke to Steve Narin about it at the Pro Solo, and although it's still possible to install the Perrin intake duct w/o removing the intake manifold, it is a bit of a butcher's job that he didn't recommend, because the OEM duct needs to be hacked up to get it out and the Perrin needs to be temporarily crushed to get it in this way.

I am not at all keen on the butcher's approach, and since we've identified that it's not part of the issue with getting rated boost, we can wait a bit more and do it properly. Rescheduling the Perrin duct install to the Nov 1st weekend.

Caveman wants to pull the butterfly plates out of the TGV at the same time, so that's our plan.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn182/meatbawl/TGVDELETES/IMG_1077.jpg

[LaszloT]

Built motor has been running really well. Getting rated boost now after replacing the aging boost controller vacuum hoses, so no new boost controller or intake duct required for now.

Starts in the coldest weather and there has never been any noticeable piston slap. There's a little valvetrain noise when extremely cold, but it goes away when warm. I've been giving it a few minutes to warm up before setting out on the coldest mornings.

Exhaust and oil leak have been remedied, so I'm quite pleased with the build.

Time to get it out on the track! :)