Looking to buy a new/used set of 17x9 or 9.5 inch rims, 45 or 48 offset, 5x114 for competition use. Please keep an eye out for me....int:
What would you guys suggest as a cheap (er) set of light (er) weight rims? Enkei's? Rota's? etc...
I have a set of 17x8 Enkei RPF1's but they're not (really) wide enough for what I need - although they'll have to do for now. I also understand that as they RPF1's get wider (than 8 inches) they no longer fit over Brembo's - does this make sense?
Thanks!
I was gonna say I'll take your Enkei's when you find another set, but I need 5x100.
It could make sense about the wider Enkei's depending on how the spokes curve. I know my RPF1s fit over 4 pots but my RPM2s require spacers (same make and size).
-Walter
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1728426
17x9 5x114 fn01-rc 550$ in north carolina +43
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/wheels-tires-lugs/161916-fs-wy-5zigen-fn01r-c-17x9-5x114-3-a-2.html
another set of fn01rc 17x9
Allen T.
2007 Impreza 2.5i SE :-D
I have the RPF1 in 17X8.5 +40 and they fit fine. Not a lot of room between the rim and brake for the tape weight, so it had to go further in on the rim. I paid $880 US shipped to Ogdensburg.
Another question - related...
If i jump up to a 9 inch wide rim from an 8, where does the extra width go? Is it 100% inboard, or 50/50 in and out?
As expected my 8 inch rims are not nearly wide enough for the 255's - in fact even more bulge than I had hoped. As well, at a 45 offset I'm going to be dangerously close to rubbing the fender lip. If the extra width is inboard I'm fine to stay with a 45 as it will pull the tire in (correct?), otherwise I'm going to need a higher offset...
thanks!! :-?
It's all a matter of choosing the correct offset to keep the center of the rim basically where it's supposed to be.
Example:
17X7 @ 48 Offset
17X8 @ 45 Offset
17X8.5 @ 43 offset
17X9 @ 40 Offset
17X10 @ 38 Offset
The lower the offset number, the farther out the wheel is pushed towards the fender.
Hypothetical scenario to try to explain offset. (Not reality)
If you started with a 17X7 Rim at 48 or 50 offset your rim gap between the strut and the rim will be about 10 - 15mm.
If you put a rim that's 17X10 with 48 or 50 offset, you'd have to cut your strut to make the rim fit.
Hope this helps.
Good explanation of how offset works (thanks, Joe) but doesn't really answer my question.... ;-)JoeT wrote:
It's all a matter of choosing the correct offset to keep the center of the rim basically where it's supposed to be.
Example:
17X7 @ 48 Offset
17X8 @ 45 Offset
17X8.5 @ 43 offset
17X9 @ 40 Offset
17X10 @ 38 Offset
The lower the offset number, the farther out the wheel is pushed towards the fender.
Hypothetical scenario to try to explain offset. (Not reality)
If you started with a 17X7 Rim at 48 or 50 offset your rim gap between the strut and the rim will be about 10 - 15mm.
If you put a rim that's 17X10 with 48 or 50 offset, you'd have to cut your strut to make the rim fit.
Hope this helps.
Understanding offset isn't so much my issue/question as much as needing to understand where/how the extra inch of width (8 to 9) is distributed. Assuming a 45 offset in both cases, will an extra inch go in board (entirely towards the strut) or will it be spread 50/50 (i.e. half in, half out)?
I have room to go in, so now I need to be clear on whether a wider rim will fill the room on the inside or whether I'll need to bump up the offset as well (to maybe a 48).
45 offset will move the outer rim closer to the fender by 5mm from stock, the rest of the space will go towards the strut.
So here's your answer hopefully.
Upgrading from an 17X8 @ 48 Offet to a 17X9 @ 45 Offset:
Your rim will be 3mm closer to the fender lip on the outside and it will be 22mm closer to the strut on the inside.
Hope this helps.
So an extra inch of width (rim) is all inboard. Correct?JoeT wrote:
45 offset will move the outer rim closer to the fender by 5mm from stock, the rest of the space will go towards the strut.
So here's your answer hopefully.
Upgrading from an 17X8 @ 48 Offet to a 17X9 @ 45 Offset:
Your rim will be 3mm closer to the fender lip on the outside and it will be 22mm closer to the strut on the inside.
Hope this helps.
Assuming 17x8 (45 offset) to a 17x9 (45 offset) all 25mm will be closer to the strut.
Thanks, Joe!!
one of the TOProtege guys made this offset calculator. hope it helps.
http://www.kgm.tiwing.com/calcs/offsetcalc.htm
-Ammaar Z.
05 Toyota Celica
The offset is from the center the the wheel. The 22mm is divided in 2, 11mm on each side of the center of the wheel. So the 9" wheel would be 11mm closer to you strut and 14mm closer to the fender.JoeT wrote:
Upgrading from an 17X8 @ 48 Offet to a 17X9 @ 45 Offset:
Your rim will be 3mm closer to the fender lip on the outside and it will be 22mm closer to the strut on the inside.
Hope this helps.
Alf
So who do I believe?!? lol :-? :-)alf wrote:
The offset is from the center the the wheel. The 22mm is divided in 2, 11mm on each side of the center of the wheel. So the 9" wheel would be 11mm closer to you strut and 14mm closer to the fender.JoeT wrote:
Upgrading from an 17X8 @ 48 Offet to a 17X9 @ 45 Offset:
Your rim will be 3mm closer to the fender lip on the outside and it will be 22mm closer to the strut on the inside.
Hope this helps.
Since neither of us know the exact offset of the stock STI wheel, at least what you have is a formula that'll help identify what to expect.
That's why I put the assumptions on width of rim there... LOL
Joe, Joe, Joe... offset of the stock rims was never the issue... :-) I was only looking to compare my current competition rims (8 inch) to a wider rim (9 inch). I appreciate the attempt though!!JoeT wrote:
Since neither of us know the exact offset of the stock STI wheel, at least what you have is a formula that'll help identify what to expect.
The calculator that elementZ posted was very helpful, thanks!!
Thanks for your help, guys!! I think I know what I need. Now the challenge of locating it.... lol
Looking for a cheaper, light weight rim in the following size:
17x9, 5x114.3, 48 offset
Any thoughts?
Dan, I've got a 17x9, 5x114.3/5x100 (dual bolt), 42 offset with 255/40/17 R888 tire that you can test fit. It's the Rota DPT (18.9 lbs).
Let me know.
Loui P
2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT
That would be great. I was thinking about the DPT's, just not sure about the offset...Loopy wrote:
Dan, I've got a 17x9, 5x114.3/5x100 (dual bolt), 42 offset with 255/40/17 R888 tire that you can test fit. It's the Rota DPT (18.9 lbs).
Let me know.
PM sent.
You got more room that a GC8 has but my 16x9 have a 6" backspace. That turn out to be 6" - 4.5"(the center) = 1.5" or if you prefer 38mm. In the front, I still have lots of room. The back is a bit tighter, I need a 5mm spacer.
Alf
Heads up... Trevor just got a set of 17 x 9 DPT +48, put 255/40-17, R-888's on it, and he's now looking to have the rear fenders rolled. The 245/40-18 R1Rs on stock rims did not rub.Daniel wrote:
That would be great. I was thinking about the DPT's, just not sure about the offset...Loopy wrote:
Dan, I've got a 17x9, 5x114.3/5x100 (dual bolt), 42 offset with 255/40/17 R888 tire that you can test fit. It's the Rota DPT (18.9 lbs).
Let me know.
PM sent.
Stephen - I drive Blue Subarus of the rally and track varietals.
Yeah, I sent Daniel a PM about that.
My wheels are the +42 DTP's. I don't think you can get that the DTP 17x9 wheel with a +48 (otherwise I would have bought those instead).
The 245/40/18 R1Rs I have are great as well. I'll be running those on Friday unless I can get the fenders rolled for the DTP's before then. Despite being a the same size spec as the stock dunlops, they do seem a little taller, as there is some rub against my mud flap mounts on the front while near fully turned. I'll just have to find some way to wear down the outside corner. :-D
Thoughts on the Kosei K1 TS? I found a slightly used set of 17x9's with a 45 offset.
Trevor, based on your experience, do you think the +45mm will be enough to eliminate the fender rubbing?
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